Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Jules Audemars
- a beautiful complication from a big manufacture
- the comfort of the wearing
- the quality of the realization of the whole
- the multitask side of this smart watch
- the absence of a seconds’ hand
- a nearly too discreet watch
- a limited 40-hour power reserve
- a watch that is (unfortunately) not reachable for every purse
| Brand | Audemars Piguet |
| Reference | 26390OR.00D088CR.01 |
| Case material | Pink gold |
| Case diameter (without crown) | 41 mm |
| Case diameter (crown included) | 42 mm |
| Movement type | Automatic |
| Caliber | 2120/2802 ultra thin |
| Base Caliber | AP 2120 |
| Functions | Date Hour Leap cycle Minute Moon phases Perpetual Calendar |
| Crystal | Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating |
| Power reserve | 40h |
| Transparent back | Yes |
| Lug width | 22,04 mm |
| Length from lug to lug | 47,40 mm |
| Case thickness | 9,26 mm |
| Strap material | Alligator |
| Clasp type | Deployment clasp |
| Clasp material | Pink gold |
| Total weight | 91 grammes |
| Retail price USA at September 3rd, 2010 | $53,750.00 |
| Comfort (/15) | 15 |
| Movement (/20) | 16 |
| Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) | 5 |
| Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) | 5 |
| Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) | 2 |
| Power reserve (/2) | 0 |
| Complications (/5) | 4 |
| Finishing (/20) | 19 |
| Dial finishing (/6) | 6 |
| Case finishing (/6) | 6 |
| Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) | 2 |
| Crystal quality (/4) | 3 |
| Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) | 2 |
| Functionality (/20) | 11 |
| Diurnal legibility (/5) | 4 |
| Night legibility (/4) | 0 |
| Water resistance (/3) | 0 |
| Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) | 3 |
| Clasp : quality and safety (/4) | 4 |
| Additional items (/10) | 5 |
| Limited edition (/3) | 0 |
| Watch delivered with several straps (/2) | 0 |
| Quality of the watch box (/1) | 1 |
| Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) | 2 |
| Goodies included (/1) | 1 |
| Understandability of the brochure (/1) | 1 |
| Value for money (/15) | 14 |
| When to wear it ? | Everywhere a man feels comfortable... but on the beach ! |
Indeed, the Royal Oak should not be the model that distracts you from the other collections of the brand.
The tradition of complicated watches is old within Audemars Piguet and finds here a new declination.
Will it be able to catch the attention of the amateur fond of sports watches?
A poetic watch
First, here are the functions of this Perpetual Calendar: it informs on the time, the minutes, the day, the date, the month, the leap year cycle and the moon phases.
All of these is of course not essential on a daily basis and the skeptical would say that any new generation cell phone endowed with the appropriate application would provide the same informations.
But it would be forgetting the magic of the watch-making mechanic that reaches here a very high level and is close to love of art.
We are here talking about poetry, not rough information!
Well, I get a little carried away!
An instinctive reading of the information
When manipulating it, the readability of this calendar is almost instinctive.
An important fact to underline since the readability is not always the strong point of that kind of complication.
To be thorough, it is even understandable without reading the instructions, even by someone who has never manipulated a Perpetual Calendar!
A well-balanced dial
Not only the dial is well balanced, but above all clear, thanks to the systematic use of registers rather than (sometimes) unsightly apertures.
The leaves hands of the hours and the minutes could have nevertheless been bigger, in order to improve again the readability.
One regret also: the absence of seconds’ hands that would allow an instant visibility of the watch’s work.
A gorgeous manufactured finishing
Further than the craftsmanship and the complexity of such a mechanism – which counts 355 pieces on a 4 mm height – the quality of the finishing, the treatment of the surfaces and also the bevel of the pieces are magnificently realized.
The treatment of the gold framed oscillating weight, makes the monogram AP discreetly appears.
An immediate comfort at wearing
The reasonable diameter of the curved box (41 mm), its slim thickness (9,26 mm), the shape of the lugs as well as the discreet push buttons contribute to the high lightness of the lines.
This lightness is possible thanks to the slim thickness of the caliber – compared to other Perpetual Calendars.
As a result: the comfort around the wrist is immediate.
The strap with curvy handles that extends the casing’s lines as well as the polished folding clasp take part to this elegance.
As for the slightly rounded sapphire glass and the polished crown marked with a discreet AP logo.
A dressy AND versatile watch
At last, the contrast of the flanks with the polished bezel gives multitask and nearly sports looks to this watch.
The stick markers enhance this impression.
It would not only be a “smart” watch, but a daily watch…
The use of the pink gold, more modern than the yellow gold, emphasizes this feeling.
What to remember
The initial idea is confirmed: the Perpetual Calendar Jules Audemars has really come out from a hushed atmosphere to enter the working world.
Even if it remains an item of exception, it will not only seduce the aficionados of such complication.
Please notice that this Audemars Piguet is delivered within a magnificent mahogany box that also serves as watch winder.
You can thus leave it for a few days during your holidays in Bali, without fearing the watch stops…