Breitling Navitimer
| Brand | Breitling |
| Model name |
Navitimer
|
| Reference |
A23322
|
| Case material |
Steel
|
| Case diameter (without crown) |
41,8 mm
|
| Case diameter (crown included) |
44,08 mm
|
| Movement type |
Automatic
|
| Caliber |
Breitling B23
|
| Base Caliber |
Valjoux 7753
|
| Functions |
Second
Minute
Hour
Date
Chronograph
|
| Crystal |
Dual-face crystal with anti-reflective coating
|
| Power reserve |
42h
|
| Transparent back |
No
|
| Lug width |
22 mm
|
| Length from lug to lug |
47,98 mm
|
| Case thickness |
14,60 mm
|
| Clasp type |
Deployment clasp
|
| Clasp material |
Steel
|
| Total weight |
102 grammes
|
| Retail price USA at May 15th, 2010 |
4,175.00 $
|
| Comfort (/15) | 14 |
| Movement (/20) | 10.5 |
| Movement Optimisation / Garnishment (/5) | 2 |
| Ease of handling and adjustment (/5) | 4 |
| Movement control proceeded by the Manufacture / horlogical awards (/3) | 2 |
| Power reserve (/2) | 1 |
| Complications (/5) | 1.5 |
| Finishing (/20) | 15.5 |
| Dial finishing (/6) | 4 |
| Case finishing (/6) | 4 |
| Quality of garnishment / caseback engraving quality (/2) | 2 |
| Crystal quality (/4) | 4 |
| Clasp finishing (inner and extern) (/2) | 1.5 |
| Functionality (/20) | 12 |
| Diurnal legibility (/5) | 4 |
| Night legibility (/4) | 2 |
| Water resistance (/3) | 0 |
| Strap : ease of size adjustment + ease of substitution (/4) | 3 |
| Clasp : quality and safety (/4) | 3 |
| Additional items (/10) | 5 |
| Limited edition (/3) | 0 |
| Watch delivered with several straps (/2) | 0 |
| Quality of the watch box (/1) | 2 |
| Portability with shirtsleeves buttoned (/2) | 1 |
| Goodies included (/1) | 1 |
| Understandability of the brochure (/1) | 1 |
| Value for money (/15) | 13 |
|
|
|
The Navitimer has forged the actual identity of Breitling : the watch as an aviator’s tool. Let’s discover this great chronograph designed for the most emblematic adventurers of an era.
Overview
It is a three-register chronometer, with a substantial diameter, readable and endowed with a circular ruler bezel, Breitling’s patent since 1952.
As a pioneer, it has settled the standards for aviator’s chronograph. It has been imitated but never equaled.
A case executed according to the brand’s high standards
The steel case has a mirror polished coating, which has been executed according to the brand’s high standards.
The push buttons and the crown are quite big but without excess.
Designed to be manipulated with gloves inside of a plane’s cockpit, it is also doable bare hands while you are sitting on your bed.
The back is engraved with a correspondence scale between the nautical mile and the metric system.
It is well made but contrary to the well-conceived ruler, this is not useful daily.
The watch is waterproof to 30m.
A rounded sapphire glass practically invisible
The huge rounded sapphire glass, united to the bezel, is endowed on its both faces with one of the best anti-reflection treatment on the market.
Practically invisible, the glass offers an unobstructed view over the deep black dial, its three white registers, the double-edged hands and the scales of the ruler.
The whole is well designed.
The dial
This version with Arabic numbers painted in Luminova is my favorite one.
It revives, better than the one with applied steel markers, the aesthetical codes of its forefathers of the 1950’s, though it has a marker.
Little pleasing fantasy : the red arrowed point of the chronometer’s trotteuse.
Another fantasy, the B in round letters at the basis of this same second hand that I like less for it is not in the tool state of mind of the watch.
The movement
This Navitimer is driven by the reliable and accurate Valjoux 7753, which is the tricompax version of the very tarnished Valjoux 7750.
Ennobled under the arms of Calibre Breitling, the B53 is decorated and certified COSC.
It brings the sole drawback of this watch: its date without quick change.
It moves on by turning the hands. It is long, difficult and put out the time while adjusting the date. Too bad !
A comfortable watch
It is offered on a thick leather straps range, plain but well designed.
They can be closed with an excellent folding buckle. You can also choose the very impressive (and expensive) Navitimer buckle made of steel.
The watch adapts itself on the wrist and its weight contributes to make it comfortable.
Conclusion
Wearing this piece of watch-making and industrial history is a great pleasure.
Its size is quickly forgotten, and a bit ostentatious, it betrays an amateur disposition for technical and quality goods.
Lastly, it is the hyphen between a President, a singer, a jazzman, an actor or an air force pilot.
The + :
- timeless
- quality
- price
The – :
- the date without quick change
Further information :
- journalist’s wrist size = 18 cm
